Using Retinoids Wrong? A Board-Certified Dermatologist Explains the Right Way

Retinoids are widely regarded as one of the most effective and evidence-backed ingredients in modern dermatology. From treating acne and uneven texture to softening fine lines and pigmentation, their benefits are well established. Yet, despite their proven track record, retinoids remain one of the most frequently misused skincare ingredients.

According to Dr. Lindsey Zubritsky, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and medical educator, many of the side effects people associate with retinoids—such as irritation, peeling, and redness—are largely preventable.

“Success with retinoids isn’t about using the strongest formula,” Dr. Zubritsky explains. “It’s about technique, patience, and protecting the skin barrier while allowing the ingredient to work over time.”

Start with a strength your skin can tolerate

One of the most common mistakes is starting too strong or using retinoids too frequently. Dr. Zubritsky recommends beginning with a low-strength retinoid and applying it two to three nights per week. This gradual introduction allows the skin to adapt, reducing the likelihood of stinging, flaking, and inflammation.

As tolerance improves, frequency can be increased slowly. Dermatology research consistently supports this method, showing that gradual use leads to better long-term results and adherence.

Always apply to clean, completely dry skin

While cleansing is essential, timing matters. Dr. Zubritsky advises washing the face with a gentle cleanser and waiting at least 20 minutes before applying a retinoid.

Applying retinoids to damp skin can increase penetration, which may intensify irritation. Allowing the skin to fully dry helps stabilize the barrier and minimizes adverse reactions.

Use only a pea-sized amount

More product does not mean better results. Dr. Zubritsky stresses that a pea-sized amount is sufficient for the entire face. Using excess product only increases dryness and sensitivity without improving effectiveness.

Retinoids work by gradually influencing cell turnover, making consistency—not quantity—the key to visible improvement.

Spread evenly using the dab method

To avoid concentrating product in one area, Dr. Zubritsky recommends placing small dots of retinoid on the forehead, cheeks, nose, and chin before gently spreading an even layer.

This approach ensures uniform coverage and reduces irritation around sensitive areas such as the eyes, corners of the mouth, and nose.

Use moisturizer first if your skin is sensitive

For beginners or those with dry or reactive skin, applying a light moisturizer before the retinoid can help buffer irritation. This technique reduces discomfort while still allowing the retinoid to remain effective.

It is particularly helpful during the early adjustment phase or in colder, drier climates when the skin barrier is more vulnerable.

Always moisturize after application

Sealing the skin with a nourishing moisturizer after applying a retinoid is essential. Retinoids can temporarily weaken the skin barrier, leading to dryness and flaking.

A barrier-supporting moisturizer helps restore hydration, improve comfort, and enhance the skin’s ability to tolerate active ingredients over time.

Sunscreen is non-negotiable

Daily sun protection is critical when using retinoids. Dr. Zubritsky emphasizes that broad-spectrum sunscreen should be applied every morning, regardless of weather or indoor plans.

Retinoids increase sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, making the skin more susceptible to sun damage and pigmentation. Without proper sunscreen use, the benefits of retinoids can be compromised.

Focus on consistency, not speed

One of the most common reasons retinoids fail is inconsistency. Stopping and restarting due to irritation prevents the skin from adapting and delays results.

According to Dr. Zubritsky, visible improvements typically take several weeks to months. With correct use and patience, retinoids can deliver clearer skin, smoother texture, and improved tone—without unnecessary irritation.

Her approach reinforces a simple skincare principle: long-term results come from respecting the skin barrier, not rushing the process.